The board most people learn on, with a modern USB-C port instead of the old USB-B. It runs an ATmega328P at 16MHz with 14 digital I/O, 6 analog inputs, hardware UART, SPI and I2C, and a barrel jack so it can run away from a computer. The headers come pre-soldered and follow the full Uno R3 footprint, so every Uno shield, sketch and library works as written. In the Arduino IDE you just pick Arduino Uno and upload.
- ATmega328P at 16MHz, 5V logic
- 14 digital I/O, 6 of them PWM
- 6 analog inputs, 10-bit ADC
- 32KB flash, 2KB SRAM, 1KB EEPROM
- USB-C for power and programming
- 7 to 12V barrel jack for standalone use
- Full Uno R3 shield footprint, ICSP header
- Headers pre-soldered, ready to use
Specifications
What's in the box
Board only. A USB-C data cable and any shields or sensors are not included.
Great for
Getting started
- Plug in a USB-C cable
It has to be a data cable, not charge-only. The power LED lights and a new COM port appears. If no port shows up, install the CH340 driver.
- Pick the board in the IDE
Go to
Tools > Board > Arduino AVR Boards > Arduino Uno, then choose the new port underTools > Port. No other settings need changing. - Upload Blink to check it
Open
File > Examples > 01.Basics > Blinkand hit Upload. The D13 LED should flash once a second, which confirms the board and the cable are both fine. - Run it without a computer
Feed 7 to 12V DC, centre positive, into the 2.1 x 5.5mm barrel jack. The board switches over on its own and the onboard regulators supply the 5V and 3.3V rails.
Common questions
Is this made by Arduino?
No. It is a third-party board built to the Uno R3 design, not manufactured by Arduino S.r.l. It uses the same ATmega328P, the same R3 pinout and the same bootloader, so the Arduino IDE, shields, sketches and libraries all work normally.
Do Uno R3 shields fit?
Yes. It carries the full R3 footprint including the dedicated SCL and SDA header, so motor shields, relay shields, display shields, Ethernet and prototyping shields all seat directly.
What changed with the USB-C port?
The connector, and the USB-to-serial chip behind it. The original Uno uses a USB-B socket and an ATmega16U2; this board uses USB-C and a CH340-series bridge. Programming, power and serial all behave the same, but if no COM port appears you may need the CH340 driver.
Can I swap the ATmega328P chip out?
No. On this board the chip is a surface-mount TQFP-32 soldered straight to the PCB, not the socketed DIP you get on some original Unos. That makes the board slimmer and cheaper, but it also means a chip damaged by over-voltage cannot be replaced, so protect the I/O.
Can I run it without a computer?
Yes. Connect a 7 to 12V centre-positive supply to the barrel jack and the board runs standalone. Stay near 7 to 9V if you are drawing real current, because the regulator is linear and burns off the extra as heat.
Are the pins 5V or 3.3V?
All the digital and analog pins run at 5V logic. If you are wiring it to an ESP32, a Raspberry Pi header or most modern sensors, put a logic level shifter in between or you can damage the 3.3V device.
How much current can I pull from it?
Roughly 500mA from the 5V rail on USB power, and 50mA from the 3.3V rail. Individual I/O pins should stay at 20mA, with 40mA the absolute maximum before damage. Anything bigger, like motors or LED strips, needs its own supply and a driver. The datasheet has a worked power budget.
Should I get the Uno or the Nano?
Both run the same ATmega328P and use the same IDE settings. Go with the Uno if you want shield compatibility, the barrel jack, or a board that is easier to handle while learning. Go with the Nano if you need it to sit on a breadboard or fit inside something small.
Good to know: Pins run at 5V logic, so level-shift anything 3.3V before connecting it. Every board is checked before it ships from our Te Awamutu stock.